GowithGingerQuebec

Halloween in Quebec

2009-10-21T08:03:00.000-07:00

Last fall, I spent a beautiful week in the old walled city of Quebec...walking on the wall and through the Plains of Abraham, enjoying the autumn foliage and the smell of woodsmoke in the air. One of the things I love best about this charming city is its celebratory spirit, no matter what the season. A haunted garden and some larger-than-life ghosts were just a few of the October decorations I spotted on my walks.

Poutine Forever- Freedom Fries Never!

2009-08-06T13:44:00.000-07:00

by Ricky Wilcox
Ah, Quebec! (or the city of many stairs, as we grew to call it). This is a beautiful place filled with 400 year old winding cobblestone streets with tons of cafes, flower boxes overflowing, perched on a bluff above the St. Lawrence Seaway, all anchored by the beautiful and castle like Hotel Frontenac. And French fries with gravy and cheese curds! Thank god the Brits and Americans never succeeded in their attempts to quell the French spirit here, it lives on to make this place so unique…and fun! Au revoir...

Now These Guys Know How To Put On A Show…

2009-08-06T13:42:00.001-07:00

by Ricky Wilcox
The Quebec City Summer Festival knows how to put on a show. Stages everywhere, street performers, beer and wine, a huge lineup of stars and lesser known talent, and beer and wine...priorities people! We left town too early to catch Sting or, even better in my tarnished rock and roll book, KISS!-damn- but we did see a couple of great shows, some by accident due to my inability to read a weekly calendar in French ("wrong turns to adventure!'” as my friend Ginger would say). Hoping to see The Proclaimers, we hit the main stage only to be greeted by the bass throbbing boom boom of Jamaican dance hall music. Have The Proclaimers changed their direction? Too much delicious and powerful Canadian beer? Alas it was Sean Paul, apparently hugely popular (reinforcement of how out of touch I am) but very entertaining, and by far the biggest crowd we saw all week- it was slammin'. The production was stellar- beautiful sound and lights and ambiance. I went to a very helpful info booth (for ditzy Yanks) and was told the show I sought was the following night...so we made it back and finally saw The Proclaimers who sounded great but were oddly a bit mechanical...brothers Charlie and Craig stood about 30 feet apart and never really interacted at all (ah- family), but the huge video monitors flanking the stage did a nice blend of the two, making it appear they were standing side by side in perfect rock star harmony! It was still a happy moment for me. Then came the headliners, The Brian Setzer Orchestra, who pretty much started off by kicking ass and kept right on taking names. Of course, we left early to make sure we got to see the tight rope crossing at 11:30 pm, only to be rained out...again! Unfortunately, a lot of rain didn't help my chances at taking photos, my camera stayed bundled up in the ol' backpack a lot of the time.

Too Much Fun

2009-08-06T13:35:00.000-07:00

I wrote about my friend Ricky's vacation to Quebec City, but now I'm going to let him tell you in his own words about his first time in one of my favorite places. For years, we've worked together in the music business, the PR business, and now in the travel business and as you'll see, his photographs are wonderful and his take on the Summer Music Festival (since he's a professional musician) picks up on things I might never have noticed.

Too Much Fun…by Ricky Wilcox
Our recent decision to visit Quebec City for it's European flair resulted in a harmonic convergence of the best possible kind...so much stuff was going on at the same time that it was overwhelming- but in a good way! The week we went was part of the Quebec City Summer Festival...a massive, eclectic music festival on a bunch of stages around town. Also, Cirque du Soleil was doing FREE street shows under a highway overpass (once we found it), an amazing show with full production. There was a major audio visual presentation called The Image Mill; uber-creative projections on a row of the port's mill towers, also FREE, and a planned night time tight rope crossing: The Legendary Crossing by Ramon Kelvink Jr...directly in front of our hotel! (uh-also FREE...just look up) Unfortunately, rainy weather caused several cancellations of the crossing. We were there by traveler’s luck for all the cancellations, then they decided to just do it during the day (before it rained)- of course- the only day we decided to rent a car and get out of town. Missing the walk was a big disappointment, but the day trip to Canyon Sainte Anne and Chute Montmorency was awesome; kick ass waterfalls with crazy/ scary pedestrian bridges. Well worth 'getting out of Dodge' for...

A Taste of Montreal at the Jean Talon Market

2009-07-30T10:59:00.000-07:00

Montreal has several farmer's markets, but one of the largest is Jean Talon where there are even stalls open 24 hours a day to accommodate shift workers and students. While the "farm to table" movement in the U.S. is just catching on, it's always been a way of life here and all of the food at the market is grown within 50 km of the city. Even better, all of the stallholders put out samples of their wares so you can try before you buy. One of the most popular stalls is the "corn lady"...not only does she sell her fresh-from-the-stalk ears every day, but she cooks up ears of corn that you can purchase and has tubs of butter and salt shakers on hand. It was truly the best ear of sweet corn I have ever had...summertime on a cob...so tender and wonderfully messy with all the dripping butter. I could have eaten a dozen of those, and in fact, the vendor makes over 15 dozen ears a day for local corn lovers.

Bagel Smackdown

2009-07-29T10:56:00.000-07:00

New York prides itself on having the best bagels on the planet, but ask any Montreal resident and they'll tell you that Fairmount Bagels are the world's best circle of dough. Since 1919, this local bagel boulangerie has used the same wood-fired ovens to produce 18 varieties of the breakfast favorite. I had one straight from the oven...crusted in sesame seeds and so hot I had to break it open and let it cool before taking a bite. The dough is much lighter (more of a bread consistency than its NYC cousin) and is sweetened with honey. I scarfed the whole thing down in a nanosecond with no additional condiments, and if I lived in Montreal, I would be a regular customer. My mouth is watering as we speak, just thinking of the possibilities of the other 17 varieties I didn't get to taste. www.fairmountbagel.com

I Can See It But I Can't Get There

2009-07-28T12:09:00.000-07:00

The biggest challenge about staying at the Hyatt is figuring out how to get inside. It sits on the corner of Sainte-Catherine , the longest shopping street in the city, and is directly across from the Museum of Contemporary Art and the main festival plaza. During the jazz festival a couple of years ago, we sat out on the hotel balcony and had a birds-eye view of the main stage.

However, because of its location in the heart of the city and its situation on the side of a hill, you enter through the garage and take an elevator up to the lobby level. If you choose the wrong door, you'll end up either in a neighboring restaurant or the underground shopping mall that runs underneath most of Montreal. In fact, you can take an elevator from the Hyatt lobby level to the shopping mall and can sit on the terrace and look through the large plate glass window at the fountain that soars to the roof and the shoppers scurrying around on the levels below you. But once you get the hang of which elevator to take, this is the premier location for festival-goers. Since most of the performers and crew stay here, it's like having a backstage pass. www.montreal.hyatt.com

Ha, Ha, Ha

2009-07-28T11:47:00.000-07:00

I just returned from a weekend in Montreal and the annual Just for Laughs Festival. I love this city for its urban energy and cultural diversity... Canada's version of New York you might say...but with the sensibility of a Parisian neighborhood. And while Paris may be the City of Light, Montreal is the City of Festivals. Throughout the warm spring and summer months the streets are alive with jazz, comedy, and art and the Place des Arts is festival headquarters.

Bright green and red banners decorated with the festival mascot, Victor, were hanging from every post and the streets were teeming with local performers and visitors. This year's headliners at the 10-day event included Bill Cosby, John Cleese, Caroline Rhea, Martin Short, and Whoopi Goldberg to name just a few.

And if you're attending any festival in Montreal and want to be in the middle of the action, you'll want to stay at the Hyatt Regency directly across the street from Place des Arts. I rode the elevator with Caroline Rhea and David Greer and eavesdropped on insider conversation among some of the other stellar comics who were sitting next to me at lunch. www.hahaha.com

Just For Laughs

2009-07-23T14:06:00.000-07:00

If this Metro entrance reminds you of Paris, that's because it IS from Paris: a gift to the city of Montreal where urban energy meets French charm. Ricky and Mark are back home, and now it's my turn. I'm leaving at the crack of dawn for the Just For Laughs Festival and I can't wait! (www.hahaha.com). By this time tomorrow night, I will have shopped in the incredible, miles-long underground retail paradise beneath the city streets and I'll be on my way to see Whoopi Goldberg, one of the festival's incredible headliners this year. On Saturday, I'll head to the old city of Montreal for some French pastry and browsing at my favorite Provencal linen shop, and then catch more comedy at the Just for Laughs street festival. Au revoir...

Going Vertical

2009-07-23T11:31:00.000-07:00

When Ricky and I travel together, one of the first things we do is seek out the highest points in our destination. We love cable cars, funiculars, tall buildings with observation decks, panoramic elevators, mountaintops and in short, anything that gives us a birds-eye view of our surroundings.

Quebec City is a great place to go vertical. From the cliff top where the Chateau Frontenac is perched to the Citadel and the old city walls, there are tons of opportunities in the city to get a 360-degree view.

Ricky and Mark rented a car and headed east of the city to Montmorency Falls for a spectacular vertical vacation experience. You can take the cable car to the restaurant at the top and watch the water rushing down to the river. In the winter, the adventurous residents of Quebec ice-climb the frozen falls.

Quebec City is easy to drive in, with great roads and good directions to attractions available at the official tourism website www.bonjourquebec.com

Location,Location,Location

2009-07-23T08:17:00.000-07:00

The Auberge du Tresor sits right at the edge of Place d'Armes and is within walking distance of most of the Old City's top attractions. At night, views of the Chateau Frontenac are spectacular.

There's No Such Thing As A Free Breakfast

2009-07-23T08:03:00.000-07:00

Ricky and Mark stayed at the charming Auberge du Tresor, which is in a great location across the street from the Chateau Frontenac and on the Place d'Armes. They had a fabulous view of the Frontenac and the park from their dormer window in Room 27 and the hotel staff went out of their way to accommodate them. They were originally going to have to switch rooms midway through their vacation, but the staff shuffled some reservations around so that they wouldn't have to move. They loved having breakfast each morning in the cafe below, looking out the window at the park. There was some confusion about whether the breakfast was included in the room rate, since they were given coupons to use. Whereas many hotels give out breakfast coupons when the meal is included in the rate, in this case the "free" breakfast coupon cost $10. Mark, who is a food and beverage manager at a popular resort in Florida, readily admitted they should have read the fine print on the coupon, but in the end, both of them were happy with the bountiful breakfast spread and to-die-for location of the Auberge. www.aubergedutresor.com

Get Down with Quebec City's Nightlife

2009-07-21T07:30:00.000-07:00

Quebec City is a creative mecca for artists. Throughout the summer, the streets are filled with musicians and costumed mimes, face painters, and circus performers, giving every day a festival feel. As a matter of fact, the founders of the famous Cirque du Soleil hail from this province and Ricky and Mark got to see their free street performance, which they said was absolutely incredible.

Always on the hunt for the quirkier aspects of any destination, Ricky discovered what he calls "the holy grail of mirror balls". And although he and Mark didn't do much clubbing, they did take in several shows including the Proclaimers at the Summer Music Festival.
http://www.infofestival.com/index.php?lang=en&page=festival

Never Travel Without A John Lennon T-Shirt

2009-07-19T16:23:00.000-07:00

In the years that Ricky and I traveled throughout the world with his rock band, we discovered a strange truth. The grungiest guy in the band, who looked like he probably had contraband in his guitar case, never got stopped at any security checkpoint, customs, or passport control. We are convinced it was because he was wearing a John Lennon t-shirt.

Unfortunately, neither Ricky or Mark thought to wear their John Lennon shirts, and they were detained by passport control when they first arrived at the airport. Ricky called me from the holding room and I tried to reassure him that the Canadian officials are just very thorough about security procedures. I always get the full search treatment every time I fly in or out of that airport, but everyone is always courteous. I've learned to always pack my nicest underthings since everyone in the security line is going to be seeing them.

But, as you can see, they did make it and got a gorgeous day to explore the Plains of Abraham and the Citadel.

Stairway to Shopping

2009-07-19T06:10:00.000-07:00

Paris may be the City of Light, but Quebec is the City of Stairs. From the upper level of the city near the funicular, you can access the boutiques and cafes of the lower city either on the funicular or by walking down the appropriately named Break Neck Stairs. Both deposit you at the head of the main pedestrian-only shopping area called the Quartier Petit Champlain.

The streets are filled with mimes, musicians, and costumed characters and lined with tony stores selling high-end clothing, pottery, and Native American crafts. This is a great place to grab an outdoor table and people watch, and is generally packed with throngs of window-shopping tourists during the summer.

Charming Out the Wazoo

2009-07-18T16:23:00.000-07:00

Ricky and Mark spent their first few days in Quebec City just walking around and savoring the European ambience. Ricky loved the flowering window boxes that line the houses, cafes, and restaurants throughout the old city, but lamented the hilly terrain. There is a price to pay for those fabulous cliff-top views, but look at it this way: it's the natural stairmaster. You can enjoy the scenery while you're getting your workout and then stop and have a drink at a charming bistro. Who wouldn't rather do that instead being in some smelly gym?

The guys took in some of the best of the Summer Music Festival shows and saw the Cirque du Soleil street performance among other things. As soon as I get Ricky's photos, I'll share more of their "first-time Quebec" experiences and observations.

Vicarious Vacation

2009-07-08T07:26:00.000-07:00

My best friends, Ricky and Mark, are visiting Quebec City this week for the first time and I'm so excited for them. Ricky and I have been all over the world together, traveling with his band across the U.S. and to Japan, and on personal trips driving through Europe in a rented VW.

Ricky is also a better photographer than I am, so he'll be providing me with some great new pictures for this blog, along with his first-timer impressions of one of my favorite cities. He and Mark are staying at Auberge du Tresor on rue St.-Anne, right across the street from the fabulous Chateau Frontenac where Churchill and FDR held secret meetings with other world leaders during World War II.

They're also right on the Place d'Armes with tons of cafes, shops, and historic sites within walking distance so it's a great location to immerse yourself in the old city. Although they experienced a travel hitch or two on the way, and arrived in the rain, when I spoke with them yesterday they were just getting ready to go exploring so I can't wait to find out what they discovered.

Coffee and Champagne in Quebec

2009-06-03T10:15:00.000-07:00

I’ve been an avowed Francophile since the age of nine, when I first began taking French lessons and driving my mother crazy trying to find croissants in Virginia. While I do love France, in the past few years, I have also fallen in love with “New France”: the province of Québec.

Since it’s much easier and less expensive to pop up to Montreal or the old walled city of Québec than to take a transcontinental journey to the motherland, I’ve been getting my French fix several times a year.

Each season offers something unique in Québec, from fabulous summer festivals and fall foliage to dog-sledding and daring winter sports. With spotless and efficient trains from Via Rail, you can soak up the nightlife and culture of vibrant Montreal and a few hours later, be walking on top of the UNESCO World Heritage site of the walled city of Québec.

My mother always said I had champagne taste on a beer budget, so depending on the state of my travel budget, I’ve sampled the crème-de-la-crème of hotels and restaurants on some trips, and lived off baguette sandwiches on others.

No matter what your budget looks like this year, it’s a great time to escape for some joie de vivre!

Check it out at www.bonjourquebec.com